How can you recognise high-quality and valuable gemstones?

Gemstones are as common as grains of sand. However, high-quality colored gemstones and diamonds that can be crafted into exceptional jewelry pieces are rare. In today’s blog post, I’ll share the journey a gemstone takes before landing in Schmuckzicke’s shopping cart.

International Gemstone Fairs and Dealers

I’d like to give you an idea of how vast certain gemstone fairs, such as the Hong Kong fair, can be. I attend these fairs as a buyer for my clients. It is said that the gemstone offerings from all over the world are presented during these few days in Hong Kong. This includes gemstones that are regularly available and newly discovered deposits making their debut at the fair. For regular visitors, some exhibitors even become familiar faces.

There are gemstone dealers with very high price expectations, and certain gemstones operate in a dream league of their own. During the first days of the fair, it’s all about separating the wheat from the chaff. Typically, I have trusted dealers with whom I work confidently. However, discovering new entrants who want to establish themselves in the gemstone market is fascinating and challenging. Finding them is often like a Sisyphean task, as the fair spans a massive 28,800 square meters.

Criteria for Gemstones

• When my intuition tells me there’s excellent material, I evaluate the candidate gemstone using both logic and instinct. Several criteria need to be assessed:
• How clear is the gemstone? I distinguish between flawless, eye-clean, and stones with minor or more significant inclusions.
• How intense is the color? How close is it to the optimal hue? If there are deviations, does the color lean toward the desired or undesired spectrum? Does it exhibit an interesting play of colors (English: hues and tones), or is it common or absent? I answer such questions thoroughly.
• How well is the gemstone cut? A first-class cutter reveals the perfect shape within a rough stone, and this skill is rare. As Michelangelo once said, “The sculpture is already complete within the marble block before I begin my work.” The same principle applies to a gemstone’s raw form.
• Do I like the stone, and how can it be further processed?

How Can You Identify a Poor Cut?

Poor symmetry and proportions, a lack of availability of rough stones, or compromises made by the cutter to preserve weight can all result in a poor cut. A poorly cut gemstone will always have reduced brilliance.

Treated or Untreated?

Whether a gemstone is treated or untreated significantly impacts its price. However, this can only be determined under a microscope, usually by international gem-testing laboratories (e.g., GIA, SSEF, Gübelin) and confirmed in the form of an expert report.
These reports are costly and may not be justified for every gemstone. Sometimes it makes sense to trust the dealer, especially if they are familiar with the rough stones and can verify whether treatments were performed.

What Size Is the Gemstone?

For example, demantoids (green garnets) over two carats are already very rare. On the other hand, amethysts and other quartz varieties often exceed 50 carats. The gemstone’s size directly determines its price and heavily depends on the type of gemstone.

Price Negotiations During Purchasing

Once all these criteria are established, the most exciting part of the purchase begins – price negotiation. If the price is favorable, my heart races. I start hoping I’ve found an excellent source. That’s when buying becomes truly enjoyable.

However, prices are usually moderate, as dealers are highly experienced and well-versed in gemstone market values. Ultimately, the purchasing volume often determines the price – the less you buy, the worse the deal. Even the best negotiation skills won’t help here.

At the end of a successful and exhausting day at the fair, the most beautiful and representative gemstones end up in my shopping cart. That’s when the creative work begins. I’ll share more about that soon.